Kansai, Memoir of 1970,NGS March issue

| Kansai #2 | Kansai #3 | Kansai #4 | Kansai #5 | Kansai #6 | Kansai #7 | Kansai #8 | Kansai #9 |
Kansai #1
Kansai, (West of the Barrier) Japan's Historic Heartland, the text and photography is by Thomas Abercrombie.
My first assignment of National Geographic Magazine with Mr. T. Abercombie, for 60 days, the milage was about 5,000km.
Japan is an island country that stretches in an arcuate shape along the eastern margin of the Asian Continent. It consists of four major island islands, Honshu( the main land), (90,194sq.mi./230,897sq. km), 61%, is equivalent in size to Utah, Hokkaido(northern way), (32,622sq.m./83,513 sq.km) 22.1% is close in size to South Carolina; Kyushu(nine States), the southern gateway toAsia (16,439sq.m./42,084sq.km), 11.1% and Shikoku(four states), the smallest of the four islands, (7,342sq.m./18,795sq.km), is 5.0%, is roughly equivalent to New Jersey, and finally Okinawan Archipelago, (total 147,475sq.m./377,535km) with a population 120 million slightly smaller than California. Most of the land lies to the temperate zone, between the latitude of 20 degrees and 46 degrees north. Since this was coerage for Geographic magazine, Japanese name have some geographical roots, I try to put the meaning directly translated from Japanese, some are my own translation, not commonly accepted.

In Japanese we call this country 'Nippon', which means original sun, Marco Polo(1254-1324), a Venetican traveler to the court of Kubila Kahn, created a great fish story though he never came to Japan, he heard that there is a golden coutry of Zipang in the east of China, the roof the imperial palace was decorated with gold(maybe from Golden Hall of Hiraizumi, glittering in 12th century), and the floor was two fingers deep gold, Japanese makie(powdered gold leaf) sprinkled boxes were great gifts from Japan to China by Japnese students or priest going to China and he thought Japan was a country of inexhaustible gold. Small letter japan means lacquerware. He left Juan China in 1290, later even Columbus beleived the language of romance, to try to explore East. During the Edo(door to the cove) period(1603-1867) most people lived with strengthned and beautified wooden bowls of lacquercoating for eating food. The gold leaf is actually razor thin, Japan did not have many gold mines to have solid gold pieces, but coated with as many as 25 times, and the prices are skyrocketing. It is just like shabushabu beef, sliced razor thin, we were so poor
we have vegetable and thin plateful beef, but the volume is not so much. We take good care of the limited materials?
Kyoto means the capital metropolis. Emperor Kammu(740-806) is the grand son of Emperor Tenchi, a master planner of Taika Restoration, and Kammu's mother was most probably the daughter of Korean immigrant couple. I am sure in those days rivers played more more important roles, Nara(good place), the capital at that time close to Kizu(wood port) River, and through this river, we can go to Nagaoka, abortive possible capital site, connected by Katsura(Jap. Judas tree) River, and finally ended Uzumasa(piled-up), originally the colony of Hata Family as the site for the palace and this family financially backed him up to build the new Imperial Court. Technique of sericulture and machiery transferred to Japanese, alos they have high civil engeering skill, they constracted a dam developed Saga, Uzumasa means, pile of weaving, later different characters assigned still very difficult to read except local residents, because of movie villagenow many can read uzumasa, now, this hata family founded Matsuo shinto Shrine, westend guardian and Fushimi Inari Shrine, close to Kamo River.

His reign was called Enryaku(Extended calendar)(782-805), the same name of the big temple on Mt.. Hiei.
The fiftieth emperor moved the Imperial Court from Nara to Nagaoka(long hill), in 784, but due to financial and other troubles he went back to Nara, and once gain removed to Kyoto on Oct. 22, in 794 and this is the day we have "Jidai Matsuri(festival of various ages)", every year since 1895. Also Constuction of Heian Shinto Shrine was planned. Before Kyoto Emperor Temmu lineage dominated Nara, which was our first permanent capital, this family reigned for 74 years.
Kammu comes from kankanbuo(permanent warrior) which is found in old Chinese Shikin or Books of Songs, at the age of 45, finally the enthronement ceremony was held on April 1, 773 a.d., thanks to his faithful supporter, Mr. Utamaro Fujiwara, anyway his reign lasted for next 26 years which as the beginning of Heiankyo(the capital of peace and tranquility), east/west 4.5km, north/south 5.2km, his rule was one of the longest one at that time, the next was Emperor Shomu who reigned for 25 years, this 45th emperor was the founder of Todaiji Temple in Nara; he died at the age of 70.
Emperor Kammu was very virile and according to the progeny six princes and 19 princesses over the years he had nearly 30 lovers. After his death were were not sure Kyoto would be a real capital of Japan, they may go back to Nara, once again, just like Shigaraki palace of Emperoer Shumu.
Old Nara Buddhism deteriorated the government, Church and State too close and there is no way this emperoer can control Church he have to have his palace so he handpicked some of the young and up-and-coming personalities to start off his ambitious scheme, one of them was Priest Saicho who was also from Hata family stock and received subsidy from the main Hata family built a small temple Ichijo Shikan-in(Mt. Hiei, array of the wise) at 788, before Kyoto became the capital city in Japan, and the first religious ceremony was conducted in the presence of Emperor Kammu on Sep. 03, in 794, this is located the northeast, demon's corner, according to old Japanese folk belief, in 804 he was sent to Tang Dynasty, China, went up to Tiantai where he received Tiantai doctorine over eight volumes of sacred text. He mastered the four sect of Tendai, Shingon, Zen and Kai(jie), and came back next year to establish a new sect, (later called Enrakuji Temple, finaly recognized as a full-fledged temple in 809, this year Emperor Kammu passed away), this new Mt. Hiei temple do not follow the doctrine of old Nara Buddhism, alienated Mt. Hiei so much, 1200 years later Nara temple sent a mission to reconcile, though Saicho had formal training in Todadiji, Nara, and but this is a circle game again, this new energetic priests spins out to their own, St. Honen(1133-1212), & St. Shinran(1173-1262), Pure Land sect founders, Eisai(1141-1215), Rinzai Zen, and Dogen(1200-1253, Soto Zen) , Nichiren(1222-1282), Hokke Sect, studied Mt. Hiei now becomes so huge and established their own zen temples a few hundred years later.
In 818 he abandoned the Hinayana(Small Vehicle, for self salvation ) commandment he had received in Nara, and started Complete Commandment of Mahayana(great vehicle, self salvation plus others) which he had learned in China. One of his teaching nation's treasure(a person who seek enlightenment) to shed a light one corner. In order to do that they had to train their mahayana doctrine priests. But strong opposition from Nara Hinayana priest delayed his wish to come true.
He died in 822, and later Mt. Hiei began as a central training dojo of Japanese Buddhism. 823 Mt.. Hiei temple was renamed the Enryakuji, after the name of the reign, 44 years after his death he was sanctified as Dengyo Daishi in 862.

Kansai #2
Saicho's teaching is "Forgetting the ego and working for others is the essence of of mercy", he learned from his bitter feud with old Nara temples. Saicho was more or less underdog compared with Kukai, so did Mt. Hiei. His followers, Ennin(794-864) and Enchin(814-891) visited China to seek further the Buddha Law.
They systematized the Extoeric, Esoteric Zen and Jodo(Pure Land) teachings.
Shugendo(another word, Yamabushi, a mountain religion of Shinto-Buddhist unity), Sanno Ichijitsu Shinto(Hie Shrine, Shinto-god as the tutelary deity of Mt. Hiei Temple), etc. are added in the course of years. Mt. Hiei enjoyed their golden time in 9th and 10th century.

In 1969 Japan was very hurtling and bustling preparing for the World Fair, which will be held in Osaka, in 1970. In 1964 the year of Tokyo Olympic games, the first Shinkansen(bullet train) opened from Tokyo to Osaka, 550km, to boost our economy freeways the very first one is called Meishin Expressway between Nagoya to Kobe(150km) opened, in Japan they call it expressway, it is not free road, we have to pay expensive toll, 1995 about $100, between Tokyo to Osaka for ordinary passenger cars.
Toyota, Nissan, and Honda are gearing up their productions of cars. I have driven Mitsubishi Minica, Toyota Publica, usual cars, off course, new ones are too steep for me. Now my fourwheel drive van with VCR and TV, Macintosh Powerbook with cell. phone, plus adapter so that I can send a fax from my den sometimes, upgraded and retooled. It was just like a booming economy of China in 1994, Kyoto, my native city, covers 610sq.km, lat. 34.52'N/35 19(from south to north), longitution 135 36' to 53(west to east), distance 48.53km north /south, 25.75 east to west, the population is slightly less than 1.5 million now. Kyoto is the jewels in the crown of old Japan, national treasure structures 28 items out of 207 in Japan 18.7%, art and craft object 163 out of 827, 19.7 % nationwide.
It was one of most popular shugaku ryokou(institutionalized school tour) destinations, it is the living history of Japan, Jo Niijima(1843-1890), 1864 boarded in Hakodate and six months later he arrived in Boston, graduated from Amherst College, Mass, in 1870, established Doshisha University, finally attained in 1912, because of this affilliation they sent Prof. Otis Cary, who probed the escape of Kyoto from the first atomic bomb attack, on May 30, 1942, Kyoto was the prime target. Nominated as a Hoover's Secretary of State, while he was still Governor General of the Philippines, he spent some time Kyoto in 1929, landing at Kobe, by train to Kyoto caught the fast train to Tokyo next morning, he boarded President Pierce, again. Prof. Kelly thought this might be too short stay and investigated further in 1926 he went to Hawaii and Far East, and checked the registration card of Miyako Hotel, Kyoto, and Mr. & Mrs. H. L. Stimson, paid \30($15) for room #18, Oct. 2, he wrote to his friend, "I feel we have duly sacrificed to the Goddess of seightseeing!", glory of Kyoto in that fall impresssed him quite a lot. War Secretary Henry L. Stimson suggested not to drop atomic bomb in Kyoto, this American historian discovered Top Seacret Memorandum from General Leslie Groves, head of the Manhattan Project, to President Truman's Chief of the Staff that proved it was Stimson. "As we recall Kokura, Hiroshima and Niigata were tentatively selected as a suitable target for the atomic fission bomb to be dropped on Japan. Kyoto was also selected but it was eliminated as a possible targetnot only for atmic fission bomb but for all boming by direction of the Secretary of War Stimson", this date was June 30, 1945, I attended Prof. Kelly's lecture at Japan Foundation, in Kyoto, in 1994, hidden recent history froze my memory, we should build a golden plaque for this savier. Otherwise Kyoto expereinced second Onin War, in the 15century everything was into ashes.
Around 1970 we said we had about 30 million tourist visiting this old capital of Japan annually. Cheapest hotel was Okazaki Hotel, single room was 2000Yen(about US$5:00), twin was 2,800Yen($8:00), even five star hotel Miyako had about 300 rooms, between 2,500-5,000Yen for single and 3,500-7,500Yen (roughly $20:00 fo r better rooms). Sukiya style Japanese annex was 5,500-7,500Yen; breakfast was 500Yen, lunch 1,200Yen and dinner around 1,500Yen, one US$1:00 official exchange rate was 360Yen, black market exchange rate for Japanese tourists go abroad was 400Yen. We could carry only $500 at a time to go abroad. Black market dollar are rampant for some rich Japanese tourists. One Sterling pound was 1,007 Yen. At the time of 1997 about 115Yen. Typical twin room jumped up from $20 to $200.
We did have have any expression of rising Yen country around 1970, Japan was the western paradise for American tourists. To my surprise from Garden City, NY, lots of chartered flight passengers carried National Geographic March issue, 1970, to see Japan.

Kansai #3
Gross National Product of Japan was about one-sixteenth of the United States, nobody knows in Japan, Darwin, Australia was attacked on Feb. 19, 1942, though everybody knows Pearl Harbor, in Hawaii, on assignment "Pearl Harbor 50 Years Anniversary" I went to Kagoshima with Tom Allen, Japanese zero fighter pilots practiced so low that they can drop a torpedo and explode the battleships in a shallow waters, even after the rehearsal they had other practices so that nobody could recognize it was for Pearl Harbor. I talked to Lt. Yoshioka told me, Japan was a underdog, so thirty minute notice was a deadline for surprise attack. Admiral Nagumo, Japanese Navy, moved their fleet further down to Hawaiian Islands so that their fighter pilots could come back safely to their deck of the aircraft carrier. In 1941 Japanese Embassy in Washington were not preparing enough for the notification regarding declaration of the War and fooling around, it was just like before Gulf War, they should have more more serious, I heard. But we did have very big perception gap in Tokyo and Washington Embassy. 1942 was the year of the horse, according to the old chinese zodiac calendar, and those who are born ithe year of Horse, very cheerdul and talk too much, terrible independent, and enjoy good life, at least in my case this prediction was 100% right.
As a second son of Masuzo Kadowaki, on Feb. 23, 1942, I was born in northern part of Kyoto, called Shichiku(purple bamboo) some years later while some of my friends and I were playing in the huge bamboo tunnel like containers on the 12 ken(about 20 meter) unpaved sttreet near my home at Christmas time I got some chocolates from American G.I., and ate some sweet potatoes cooked in ricestraw burned in front of our shop-home selling hardware to pottery, I got only five yen(a couple of penny) our monthly allowance, but I liked to play Japanese chess called shogi, during my elementary school days.
One of my toil was going to Nagaoka, about 15 kilometers by bicycle to pick up farmers spring onion bamboo basket, about two 50 centimeter tall and 75 centimeter wide, it was a tough job in summer. But it was a norm in those days, family solidarity was much stronger, one time we went out to enjoy pine-mushroom sukiyaki, sliced marbled beef cooked with vegetable on the pinicing hibachi, everybody was enjoyed gorgous maple color and great food but everybody was thin.
Life as much more fun compared with these days.
Kadowaki means by the gate, my father was the third son of a farmer in Shiga Prefecture, not enough land to cultivate rice, and lived near the get of the Buddhist temple, he apprenticed to a wholesaler of household articles. He became independent to push his own shop. But I did not like the shop to succeed. As my elder brother passed away of pneumonia when I was a baby. It was a duty for the first son to follow a father's footstep. My dad was not so pushy.
After working for Kyoto Hotel, as a bell-hop and captain, and later front office clerk, I went to Europe alone in 1966. A Book called "I Will See Everything", by Makoto Oda, changed my lifestyle, though I studied very hard to learn English satirically my first visit was Russia, from Yokohama to Nakhodka, by SS Baikal, and then Khabarovsk, by train and I flew to Moscow, more than 20 countries, I travelled staying at youth hostels and sometimes by train, hitchhiking in Germany, Denmark, England. 1967 to 1968, $3,000 disappeared just like a morning dew. I have started again to work for a travel agency in Osaka(big slope), arranging tours from the Stateside, I brushed up my English at Saturday English speaking dojo, chaired by Mr. Michihiro Matsumoto in Osaka and Kyoto Mainichi Club(KMC), established in 1963. Fortunately or unfortunately not so many Japanese could speak English those days, we say about 1 percent of the population, roughly one million.
Every Fridays we had a meeting at Mainichi Newspaper Kyoto Branch office, as our club organized as a public speaking club, most Japanese were and are not so good at speaking in public, Mr. Kiyoshi Nagata, first KMC secretary was a dynamo of our club. I have learned quite a lot from Zen and Japanese Buddhism of D.T Suzuki, tea making in Uji, one of the member was Miss Kazuko Tabata, who was working for Japan National Tourist Organization, Kyoto Tourist Information Center. She recommended me to work with Mr. Thomas Abercrombie, foreign editorial staff-member, National Geographic Society, as his gatekeeper(Kadowaki's rough translation). Main job, as an interpreter and driver, and navigator.
On April 22, 1969, Tue. Encounter with Mr. Abercrombie I visited Masumoto, a small cozy ryokan, built by a heart and soul of a dedicated carpenter, east of Heian Jingu, usually translated Shinto Shrine, but it is a misnomer, but no suitable word, we still use this word, translation is a traitor, very often, the meaning and hidden connotation is different in one language to another, for example a maple means baby-size hand in Japan, but in Canada much bigger, cherry-blossom trees in Japan usually do not bear cherries, it is another kind of trees Anyway this shrine was the replica of the original Imperial Palace which was built in 794 as a 1100 anniversary of Kyoto, and dedicated to Emperor Kammu and Emperor Komei, the first emperor and the last emperor in Kyoto, vermilion colored photogenic building was like a Kodak photo spot for red-hungry American photographers, because most of Japanese beauty is dark or black, according to Jun-ichiro Tanizaki(1886-1965), a novelist, loved "beauty in ruins", for example, nice old chunk of wood rubbed many times by slightly wet duster, shibui(subdued color) is almost impossible to depict in a good photograph, except some gray scale black and whilte photographs, the garden of this shrine is famous for its weeping cherry-blossom. With foreign journalists I am still pursuing red bridge, red gate, and red buildings...Even Japanese do not understand of black beauty, all the places well or too much lit, No body understand shoji and tatami culture, pretty these are all gone from Japan. At the entrance of this cozy inn, I met Mrs. Masumoto, owner of the ryokan, first and then met Mr.Abercrombie, I have been working for Japan Gray Line, overseeing many tour arrangement, it was a nice job to assist him for three months, but I have had other commitments, so I almost turned down to work with him. He made a counterproposal and later we made our own working calendar of my availability, one thing I was greatly impressed he was very keen to learn and his room was like a small library with many English books on Japan. Also I would like to work with an American journalist, let give it a try and we can learn as we go, and most important thing was our chemistry was superb. I came back home around 10:00p.m. I talked to my soul-mate, Mitsuru Sato, KMC member, some members can help some of our part time job, meeting and sending of foreign tourists at Osaka Airport and Kyoto Station. He went to Europe just like my footstep, and he was robbed and refunded his return ticket(France to Japan), hitchhiked all the way back to Bangkok. Got a job at Honda, instrumental to sell Chrysler Jeep Cherokee, headhunt for Volkswagen, the highest earner of our ex-club members. We(leftovers), Kyotoite, live in a small village, and better supporting system, this was my wide campus to learn and dig.
April 23, Wed. Day Two, Kyoto Researching.
The very first working day with him, 9:00a.m. I parked my car next to Masumoto Ryokan, we made our long-range tentative plan, no fax, no e mail, long distance call was difficult red public telephone accepted only ten yen coins, for 4 seconds to call Tokyo, I carried 500Yen tube sometimes on assignment.
For the weekly schedule we formulated and then went to Maruzen Bookstore to search for more travelwise books for us. His six-mat room became his den, after having ofuro(Japanese bath) he sat down on the low table by western standard, our regular height, in yukata(light kimono), read "Read Japanese Today", his bible on Japanese, deciphering complicated letters, very eager to learn Chinese characters.
In those days Japan was formous for its Fujiyama(everlasting mountain) and Geisha(artistic people), some of the American tourist groups had geisha party at Minokichi and Junsei restaurants very often, US dollar was still very powerful.
We have five hanagai(literary meand flower town), or entertaiment district in Japan, the most prestigous one is Gion Kobu, established as 1745, as Gion was gateway to Yasaka Shinto Shrine, naturally people stopped to have a sip of tea, even now one of surviving teahouse is Nakamuraro, southside of the shrine, is serving tea and pastry. Gradually tea house developed into gorgeous facilities, serving dinner from catering service, in Japanese Geisha, geigi, means artitstic beautiful girl and some started nighttime business from daytime, so 1732 officially recognized as the licensed redlight, first choice fantacy. Gion East branched off after Meiji Restoration 1867, south of Gion they washed mikoshi or portable shrine of Gion festival at Kamo River, this part of river was called Miyagawa, so now it is called Miyagawacho, around 1604, first female inpersonator of kabuki stayed around Miyagawa(shrine river), it was the one of the biggest gay district. It was in 1751 officially recognized. Miyagawacho will accept walkin customers, compared with Gion, you need a proper introduction. The oldest gay quarter (of Geisha) is called kamihichiken, or upper seven household, in front of Kitano Shrine, some 600 years ago they built leftover lumber to build seven tea houses, it was in the middle of weaving area in Kyoto, offcially recognized in 1790 as a red light district, it was catered to rich kimono merchant class until around 1950.
The western part of Sanjo Bridge of Kamo river, was newly developed in 18th century, on the eastern bank we had Nawate st.(woven ricestraw rope) dike, but the west side once it was inundated no dike to protect, it was called a new river field, now Kawaramchi(river field) to Teramachi(temple) St.
It was a nice location to view 36 peaks of eastern mountains. The name of this newest quarters was not allowed to have prostitutes, so some worked as a waitress, the street is called 'Pontocho' is from a tip of Kamo river, or between Kamo river and Takase(high rapids) canal, it was just like a drum, onomatopoeia, Pontocho. Anyway they scouted good dancers from all over Japan, a bit spicy girls, this alley is only a couple of meter wide. But one of the well known street in Kyoto.
For scouting Kamogawa Odori(Geisha dance), we bought the tickets of the ringside seats, and went there many times, that is the only way to get the best picture, no budget, dollar was skyhigh. Plus one is called Shimabara(island field), 1397, the oldest segrigated district of coutisan called tayu, slightly different type of entertainers, like Yoshihara in Tokyo, so many relcations by the shogunate government, by accident it settle down to the present location it was just like Shimabara revolt, in Kyushu, baloodbath, in 1639, so it named, but it ia now rather historical landmark.

Kansai #4
Today I got information about National Geographic Society, I had no knowledge of NGS, though I subscribed Time and Newsweek, 33 founding fathers of NGS gathered at Cosmos Club on Jan. 10, 1888 at 8:00p.m. for the advisability of organizing a society for the increase and diffusion of geographic knowledge. When Alexander Graham Bell becomes President of NGS, in Jan. 1897, it had only about 1,000 members around Washington D.C. debts of almost $2,000. Though some are against putting photographs in a rather academic magazine, illustrated photographs matching the text great success, up-to-date encyclopedic information, number of circulation 6,286,410, as of June 1969, and in Jan. 1993 paid circulation was 9,353,988, even though it was slightly over the hill. But it is still a champion of some of the big stories, an epic story, underwater and nature following coering...
One part of success comes from putting these fresh and strong photographs in the magazine, though some were against it, it was a more academic publication.
In 1964 Tokyo Olympic issue was published, Mr. Bill Graves(later editor), covered, another one long tailed cock, Japan was almost invisible in Western world, Tom's issue as on Cambodia 64, Saudi Arabia 66, Afghanistan 66, and I discovered him a Moslem.

April 24, Thu. Private Railway Spring Labor Offensive Day
We finished three month long skeleton itinerary, as we met 7:00a.m., Osaka, Kobe, Himeji, Nara, Yoshino Kumano National Park, Wakayma, Japan Sea Coast side, such as Amanohashidate(Bridge to the Heaven). I came home at midnight.
Althoug it was the day of major strike, but we were mosly indoors, not affected.
Apr. 25, Fri. Long Negotiation & Scouting
09:00a.m. at Masumoto Ryokan, based on yesterday's itinerary I start making many telephone calls, my job, usually either, on the phone, driving, or sleeping on the wheel, not driving while Tom is taking pictures. My logistics, most difficult, when we get there, it is almost half done. One of them, later my speciality, chartering a small private plane and helicopter, old Japanese proverb only fools love go up... aerial photo chartering Cessna at Yao Airport, in Osaka. Then I went to Kyoto City Government Tourist Office to solicit better cooperation to take some of the Buddhist temples, in the course of years, I have got better tie than city government. One of the temples is Sanjusangendo(National Treasure), 33 spaces hall between columns, real name is called 'Renge-o-in'(Lotus King Temple), a branch temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, built by Ex-emperor Goshirakawa(1127-1192, cloistered), next to his residence Hojuji(small octagonal hall, now and his grave) through effort of Kiyomori Haira(1117-1181) who was the financial sponsor of the construction, in 1164, it was called "Sentai Kannondo"(Thousand Kannon Hall), in 1249 Conflagration of Kyoto City burns down the temple; 1266 Completion of the present building, by the order of the ex-emperor Gosakga(1220-1272) , and this is the present building and longest building(frontage 387 feet) in Japan, also Sentai Kannon Do I heard we had other 1,000 Buddha temple in other places, but as an existing temple this is only one with 1,000 Kannon.
Emperor Goshirakawa, a gift poet and musician, conducted affairs of the state for 34 years, even eafter he retires as a priest, in 1169.
The number 33 is metioned in Lotus sutra, when people are in need, prayer for kannon she will appear in 33 different incarnation to solve our worldly distress, originally called Avalokitesvara in India was male, but image of Kannon is more female-looking, usual English translation goddes of mercy. The original hall was burnt to the gound in 1249, and and rededicated in 1266. In olden days childbirth was very important for a mother, after three year's of marriage, if she has no child, she was divorced very easily, so most of married women wanted reassurance of childbirth, regardless of sect very popular Buddha. Kannon provide potection in this world and fianly help people to send into on a white lotus to Admida's Pure Land after death.
Although this temple was patronized by subsequent emperoors, when the manor system declined, temple's power also down-graded, rising warlord Hideyoshi Toyotomi(1563-1598) built Hokoji (Direction wide temple) in 1586, next the Sanjusangendo, and subjugated this Kannon building, but in 1596 we had a castrohpic earthquake in Kyoto including Fushimi Momoyoama Castle and this even larger than the Great Budha Hall, to house a 19 meter Buddha, after his death, his son was annihilated by subsequesnt shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa finihed , and bronze statue and problem big bell of 4 meter , which contained Chinese characters, kokka-anko Kunshin-horaku( National safety, ..) separated two characters of Ieyasu, this led to downfall of Toyotomi family, this building also destroyed by an earhtquake(1662), and again the Buddha was built later on, once again, in 1973, this Great Buddha was burnt down by fire, Kyoto is a nice place to walk from Sanjusangendo to Kiyomizu temple, via Rokuhara Mitsuji Temple. The hall was under control fo Myohoin temple, it is now too, we went to this tmple to get permission of shooting inside, usually no pictures are allowed inside of the 1,000 kannon hall, It is awesome to see thousand Buddha at a time, it chief image is is the Thousand-handed kannon(Senju Kannon), took over three years, in 1251, 3.4 meter, in a sitting posture, eight feet high, and she is sandwiched by 500 north and south 1.66 meter kannon, 273 identifed by their artists name respectively, at this time we had 28 followers on the back of these images, including god of the thunder and god of the wind. This becomes a standard pattern of 28 super natural powered gurdian gods in Japan.
Most of them originated from Hinduism, some are called, Naraen Kengo(Sk. Narayana), Bishamonten(Sk. Vaisravnal), god of fighting, Makeishura-o(Sk. Mahesvara), Ashura-o(St. Asura-raja), or someone is really upset, he is like a asura. These names are mentioned in the Senju Darani Mantra which is base on the senju-kyo sutra. This holy scripture was translated from Sanskrit into Chinese in the mid 7th century. In Japan these deities were protectors of devoted Buddhist who recide Senju Darani Mantra which explain the merit of Senju Kannon, visual representation was created in Japan, no in China and other Buddhist countries. The great south gate and high wall was built by Hideyoshi.
Back of the temple was the site for film shooting of a duel of Miyamoto Musashi and Yoshioka Family. Archery contest in January 15, for coming-of-age ceremony and May 15. The numerous carving of boddhisattova degenerates latter age of Buddha's law(mappo) could be saved only through constant pious act of devotion. During the Edo Period(1603-1867) the Sanjusangendo was famous for its archery contest called Toshiya. Matchers were held under the eves of the outer passageway. The distance was 394 feet(120meters).
In Japan we have many different Buddha, one is Shakamuni, second category is Amida(Honganji temple), in Nara Yakushi Buddha, another kind is called Dainichi(Singon Buddhism, Mt.. Koya and Toji Temple).
Bostau is a Japanese word, and Bodhisattova, One whose essence is enlightenment, or future Buddha, in Japan most popular one is Kannon-Avalokitesvara, popular English name is goddess of mercy. Actually on May 1, we got permission to shoot, inside the 33 spaces hall, it was a limited access, and impossible to show the whole layout of the temple, so this photo was inside of the circular box. . The number 33 is very important number, we have 33 pilgrimage temple in Western Japan, Kiyomizu temple is the 16th place get verification stamp. Main gilded wooden image of the thousand handed kannon was curved by a famous artist Tankei in the 13th Century. He made the two guardian gods of the Great South Gate of Todaiji Temple in Nara. Each of the small kannon has 42 hands, including the conventional two hands, so these extra arms works 25 times supernatural ways, equals, 1,000 means perfection in those days.

Kansai #5
Apr. 27, Sun. Cruising Kyoto 09:00a.m. Tom and I left by his rentacar, Datsun Bluebird for Goh Shinto shrine, west of the Old Imperial Palace, dedicated to Wake-no-kiyomaro, famous court noble, appointed Minister of Public Works by Emperor Kammu, founder of Kyoto. He took some pictures of the Shinto wedding preparation and then headed for Daitokuji(great virture) temple, my area, one of biggest zen temple to find out tea ceremony, more scouting and personal ties then we went back to midtown zen temple, Kenninji temple to see ikebana exhibition.
Late afternoon we scouted Kyo-o-gokokuji, guardian temple, popularly known as Toji Temple(East Temple), built by Priest Kukai(posthumously called Kobo Daishi) in 823, the headquarters of of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism, in their treausre house they keep lots of mandala, this is the core of teachings, originaly Gezu Mandala one copy brough back by Kukai, we have had strong rival consciouness of Priest Saicho. This has developed major conflict of these two religous groups.
At 31 he went to several monasteries in Tang Daynasty China, he began to studer under Esoteric Patriarch Hui-Kuo at Quin-long-si Temple in chang-an. Three years later he received a pair of mandala as a symbol of the transmission of Esoteric teaching. The sutra is so mysterious and difficult , so for common priests to understand by the visual image. The term mandala is translitered Sanskrit word meaning "a thing with an essential value" which is the Dharma or universal truth which govern all laws and phenomena. We tend to forget this essencial value from anxiety and confusion, in another word mandala in our mind which are blessed by the Buddha's wisom and mercy. Manga(comic strips) might be created to explain something difficult in much simpler visualgaidance.
This East temple rather located west, at present, the main gate was called 'Rashomon(net castle gate)' was destroyed by a storm in 980, 'the city of peace and tranquilty' was out of steam to reconstuct the most important south gate but originaly another temple West Temple existed, but lack of the budget Toji becomes the main traing temple of Esoteric Buddhism. Buddhism in those days are more or less for elite, with fifty priests it was first government built temple. Shingon temples just like Tendai temples disciples compete to boost their temple, one is Kongobuji, Mt. Koya, This East temple had ups and downs. It has been a popular temple of the statute of Kobodaishi, every month on the 21st we have a memorial service and many venders. Most of the buildings were destroyed in the civil wars in 15th centuries, but some were rebuilt.
We do not know when the original pagoda was built, around 876, four times destroyed by lightening or something.
The landmark in Kyoto is five-storied pagoda, 55meters, 182 feet, in 1695 built by Iemitsu Tokugawa, the third shogun of Togugawa Shogun, is the highest pagoda in Japan. I have been to this pagoda from every corners with many different photographers for the last 30 years. Every month on th 25th we have momorial service of the founder and many venders of flea market is stll thriving.
This is one of the first market in Japan, Toji was rejuvenated thanks to Taishido or founder's hall. It was a market for common people and center for commerce. You can buy 10,000Yen or so used wedding gown, originally the price of Merces Benz.
The last visit for the day was another pagoda, three times burnt down, Yasaka-no-to(Hokanji Temple), 128feet, built by Yoshinori Ashikaga, the sixth shogun, in 1440, and repaired in 1618, people of this neighborhood look up every mornig with high spirit,we climbed up the steps and found the right spot, this photo made to the magazine as a lead photo of Kyoto of purple hills, unfortunately we have an obstacle building constructed, so you can not take the same pictures, sorry, no second chance.　Actually we tried again to be at the right time of sunshine on May 2, too leafy, not the right position, after constant endeavers we got one. The oldest pagoda in Japan is Horyuji Temple in Nara, about 1300 old.
It is believed the stupa and pagoda was originally the place Buddhist followers worship the ashes of Buddha were buried and later becomes symbol of the temples.
The five represents heaven, air, fire water and earth. Though we have some three storied and seven storied.
We walked to neaby Kiyomizu(pure water) Temple, one of the oldest temple of the Hosso sect in Kyoto, in 788, a priest in Nara called Enchin had a inspired dream go up north of Kizu river, ended up the cliff of the present Kiyomizu Temple, built a small hermitage and he curved a wooden stuatue of Kannon(Goddess of mercy). Shogun Tamuramaro Sakanoue happened to search for a deer and eventualy blood of deer was believed to have a easy baby delivery for his wife, the priest preached benevolence of Kannon, an cruelty of a killing living things. so in 798 shogun Tamuramaro erected the temple dedicated to 11 faced 1000 handed Kannon(42 hand hands actually, very popular to save people while alive, some have 1,000handed, the present one is made of wood 106 cm, gold foil coating).
Enchin curved two supporters, Jizo Bosatsu(guardian of the children) and Bishamonten(guardian of warriers and the north). Another tradition tells that the main hall of the Imperial Palace in Nagaoka Captital was given to this temple in 865. Very graceful all time temple with shingle roof of irimoya, it not so easy to find as a Buddhist temple. One of the famous landmark in Kyoto has five symbolic color, blue, the color of the sky and water, very refreshing and vitality, symbol of wisdom, red, color of blood, with better memory and prayer, three story pagoda, vermillion , built in 1632, and repainted in 1987, yellow, symbolizing diligence, white means trust or purity and kaba(reddish yellow), main gate and main hall is thatched with hinoki or Japanese cypress, when you are in the temple you are more or less rlaxed, means meditaive concentration. Five cloud colors, Kannon, like goko five colors of Amida are indispensable to rise above Five Realms of Jigoku or hell, Gaki or Starvation, Chikusho or Beast, Ningen or Human being, and Tenjo Heaven to attain spiritual enlightenment.
During 1200 years history of pure water temple was destroyed several times by fire. Kiyomizu Tmple is a full-fledged temple, they have everything, Hondo or the main building, erected in 1633, is the residence of Fudaraku(Patalaka), the palace of goddess of mercy, a masterpiece of Japanese architecture, her teaching is immeasurable mercy and compassion. This is also No. 16 pilgrimage temple in Western Provinces.
Other buildings from the entrance, Nio-mon(Gate of the Deva Kings), important cultural property, some 500 years old, Westgate in 1631 reconstructed, and Bellfry, 1607, bell 1478, Kyodo or sutra Hall, 1633, Kaisando Founder's Hall, 1633, NishimukiJizo-do or Westfacing Jido Hall, Shakado or Shakamuni Hall, two assitan mongu and hugen bosatsu, in 1631, Haykutai Jizo-do Hall of 100 Jizo, for those who lost children, Amida-do or Amida Hall, built in 17th century, No. 13th sacred stop fo Saint Honen's 25 pilgrimage temples, Okuno-in innermost Temple, main deity is Kannon, 1633, Koyasu-no-to(easy childbirth pagoda), rebuilt in 17th century.

Kansai #6
At Masumoto Ryokan, Tom stayed upstairs, downstairs sometimes we could overhear to "Kan Jizibosatsu, gyojin hannyaharamitaka"... Mrs. Masumoto and a maid, sumi-san chanted Hannya shingyo(Heart Sutra), in front of Buddhist altar, this is the shortest sutra, as far as I know, and the essence of Buddhism, from 8,000 volume holy scriptures, translated into, Chinese, this short est version was very popular sutra, one time in our English club, we invited Mr. Tanaka, chief priest of Shimyoin to explain, we have famous Japanese proverb, "Baji-tofu, to the ear of a horse no meaning of nice chanting of sutra", horses do not appreciate the greatness, the same things apply Japan had its own ethos, materialism will become in high gear, people become atheists. I have to reply on the wisdom of the Buddha, Japanese are tacit people and they do not express their opion clear-cut. We live in the same place for many generations, we do not want to create friction, very euphemistic polite expressions were created. All of sudden, three mile radious society expanded from a tiny global village to wider field, but the still same game is played. It is about time to renovate. Just like an old hotel, we have to refurbish, physically but mentally too.
Chanting the shortest and cream of the cream, Hannya Shingyo(heart sutra), Bussetsu maka Hannya shingyo, this is the shortest holy scripture. My dogmatic interpretation is " My dear , goddess of mercy give me a power of wisdom, there are five elements of in this world. If we observe carefully there is no substance. An old man told me what you see now is gone, your life is just like a riding on the moving train. Do not expect you have power of knowlege,wisdom, wealth, forever. Parents are money will be gone. Whatever it exist in this world will disappear in the course of time. Anything born will persih some day. It is just like a balloon, one part will deflate, and another will inflate, no subsistence.
If you have the perfect wisdom you are never afraid of aging, and death.
Past, present and future, if you awake in the vast world, reply on your wisdom, you have the perfect enlighenment, this is the supreme teaching of this heart sutra, also Buddhism. You search your own road, getting lost on the way is the quickest way to find the right one eventually, hopefully"
Apr. 28, Mon. National Panasonic in Osaka
Out of numerous industries in Kansai we picked up some cottage industries in Kyoto, Kobe Steel out of Kobe, Mikimoto Cultured Pearl, Toba, and Osaka rpresentative is Matsushita Electric Industrial, Mr. Konosuke Matsushita, made a small electric fixture plant in 1918,relatively unknown in the States, compared with Sony, today is the negotiation day so we went by Keihan electric train to Kadoma, about one hour from Kyoto. We met Mr. Tomoaki Naganawa, public relations department. Tom made our coverage plan. 1. the exterior of the head office, 2. assemblyline 3. interview with the executive, line workers, engineers, etc. Tom wanted to see more about Osaka, Dotonbori, southern entertainment district, famous fugu or blowfish sign, and crab restaurant billboard, gaudy place, we extended our stay to watch a 'Bunraku' puppet show, Tom was greatly interested in Kabuki and Bunraku,
Apr. 29, Tue. Motorboat racing & Lake Biwa, 677 Sq. km, cic. 277km
It is Emperor Hirohito's Birthday, 124th from the methological period, National Holiday.
Tom does not like to Japanese breakfast, so we have breakfast at 'Date', coner cafe terrace, this place was our hang-out, though Tom loved French fires, he was served only three pieces in the main meal, this was his shocking experience, in the west, they serve uncounterable fries. Today we go to east, about 10 kilometer, we hit Biwako(lake of lute) is the largest in Japan was created by the subsidence of the land1.5 million years ago. It is too big to take a overall
pictures
except aerial, we dropped our idea, we have some scenic spots, he was much more interested in human activities rather than picture post card type beauty. Our first stop was mtorboat racing track, at Yanagasaki, we asked some questions to gamblers, we ate lunch at Dragon Palace like Biwako Hotel for western meal, as our theory of coverage to use another road to come back via newly built housing complex, Hieidaira. Late afternoon, my first homage to Ryoanji(dragon peace) stone garden, more than 100 times in all I visited this rock garden on assignment of Kyoto & Nara, National Geographic Special(TV), Traveler, Japanese Garden, etc. This perfect proportion, of rock placement and formation and enigmatic garden becomes so famous millions oversea visitors loves to count fifteen rocks. Katsumoto Hosokawa(1430-73), a minister of Ashikaga Shogunate Government, founded this Dragon Peace temple, but had the misfortune to become a commander-in chief of Higashijin(east camp), Nishijijin(west camp), now weaving district in Kyoto, was headed by Sozen Yamana, in Onin War, something like War of Roes in England and he died in the war and buried here in Ryoanji, this zen temple later becomes Rinzai Branch of Myoshinji monastery. The hojo main building was burned down in 1790, though the tiger clustered garden was saved. 26 generations later, former Prime minister Hosokawa is a branch family of this Hosokawa Family, some families we can trace back several centuries pretty easily. This is a garden of simplification, and contol your mind, if not too crowded.
Ryoanji and many other Japanese gardens and buildings as Frank L. Wright loved to visit in early 1900, socalled inside-outside view, you enjoy the view of out side borrowed scenery just like a frame.
We have so many explanation of this garden, one of them is mother tigers are carrying their cubs, or mountains poking over the white clouds, the fifteen is the symbol of completion, the circle means enlightenmentetc, most probably the garden was laidout by Soami(1472-1523). Satori is another word difficult to translate, to awake or enlighten yourself, vut we have a gig perception gap in English and Japanese, but the show has go on.
This temple attract one million visitors annually, but early Meiji, around 1900, so poor they sold some sliding door painting ended up in Metropolitan Museum in New York.
Washing our hand was the very important business, the Tuskbai , we should be content what we have now. We also have Imperial tomb of 65th Emperor Kazan(967-1008), who pioneered pilgrimage in Japan. We will have our own crush course now.
Apri.30, Wed. Toei Film Studio & Tea Planation.
New direction today to the west to see the samurai film production, Uzumasa was originally developed by early settlers from Korea called Hata Family over 1300 years ago.
Koryuji(wide emergency) temple(founded in 622) has the first registered national treasure, called Miroku Bosatsu(Maitreya, Bodhisattova), future Buddha, carved in the Asuka period(552-645), one of the most graceful image of the Buddha. We used to have three movie studios, Akira Korosawa's Rashomon(was the main south gate of the Heiankyo or captial of peace and tranquilty, actually we had many wars)was shot in Daiei(big movie), went bankrupt and Shochiku(pine bamboo), consolidated in Kanto(near Tokyo), are losing their steam, and the puffing was Toei(East movie), back from 1926, one of well known action star Tsumasaburo Bando cleared bamboo forests established his own Ban-tsuma(shortened spelling of the obsessive star) Pro Uzumasa Studio, trying to have a tie with Universal Stuido, in vain and in debt. The golden days of 1950-60's Uzumasa become a little Hollywood, after changing hands eight times, in 1951 the present Toei was established we stopped and negotiated for our shooting, dropped Kodak nearby Far East Lab. for test processing.
In the afternoon we head for the south Uji(house control), wehere rolling hills and mountains suitable for tea cultivation, to open our chapter, Prefectural Tea Research Institute, enlightend ourselves and received basic information of facts and figures, then properly introduced Mr. Kisaburo Yoshida, master tea mixer, 70 years old, new tea one kilo was 11,000Yen, Uji method of making tea was developed by Sohichiro Nagatani, in 1783, convetionally Chineses method of baking tea in a caudron and dry it on the mushiro rice straw mat, about three kilogram of tea leaves drying and turn to have better luster and aroma, later to cover his day.
Tom is very keen to learn, in Japan we do not give money openly, we put it into special money envelope, but depending on the occasion, wedding for example red and while line elaborate envelope we insert 1,000Yen to 5,000Yen. One time an ignorant American put the money into black and while envelope, he did not know this is strictly for funeral affairs. In the evening we visited Mr. Genda's home handling Mizuhiki(strand of paper string), we use these ornamental string to tie the special presents. We still have many stores difficult to explain culturely.
Some of the shops in Kyoto have no signs,so even if you pass right in front of it, you do realize you were there, they handle only regular customers.

Kansai #7
May 2, Fri. Yao(8 tails) Airport in Osaka
We had no airports or airfields in Kyoto, so everytime we need an aerial photos we have to make a long trip to Osaka, time-wise, distance is only slightly over sixty kilometers, after passing Hirakata Bypass, National Highway Route 1, going south from Kyoto, we hit bottleneck Sanyo's Moriguchi city, suburbs of Osaka, we didnot have Kinki(near the capital) expressway yet, so decied to divert the back road. This was second small plane flight, first time, from Lake Biwa, Ihave flown once over Kyoto on a float plane for 20 min. , today Cesna 172 one hour was 21,000Yen(US$58), 1997 about 70,000Yen($600), this was my humble beginning of the small plane craze, we flew densely popolated, Sakai, south of Osaka, Amagasaki, factory area, west of Kobe, so the capital of smoke evaporated quickly, no picture made it to the magazine, he climbed th etop of NTT telephone company, this cheap aerial had the better scope.
On the way back different roads of Route 20, and 24 back to Kyoto.
Late afternoon, we call it golden hours, we scouted on the top of complex of apartment, no key was necessary to go up those days, it was soft color and evening grow is superb, sometimes, about a couple of hours before and after sunruise and sunset. After National Geographic assignment, I changed my habit sleep early ang rise early. But it is too good when we have no cloud, too bad for too cloudy day, it is a life difficult to predict, so somtimes we hit the same place repeatedly once we get the right postion, sunrise and runset. Beautiful photograph of National Geographic comes from very careful planning and gracefulness of the mother nature god sometimes.
We repeated to different locations of Toji and Yasaka pagoda, finally the latter was picked.
May 3, Ryokoin(dragon light temple), in Daitokuji(great virture) temple & Mt. Hiei Daitokuji is located in the northern part of the city, sometimes Samurai filming were shot here, I saw some movies when I was a child in the open air at night. This was founded in 1324, and it is one of the chief temple of Rinzai Sect of Zen Buddhism. We have many Rinzai Sect temples in Kyoto not so many Soto Zen temple, I asked the difference of the two, it was just like climbing Mt. Fuji on a different route, Soto put more emphasis on shikantaza, meditation, Rinzai more kowan, questions and answers sessions, assignby by roshi(zen master), but even if we gained one answer, what is heck, that is not enough to lead a life and it was just like a maze, great monastery, my playing ground in my boyhood days, and my high school was west of this temple, the ground extends over 27 acres.
Tom and I passed through the elegant gate Rev. Nanrei Kobori, chief priest, Ryokoin, one of the subordinate temple of Daitokuji, built in 1606, greeted us with powdered tea, this temple was closed to public so it was very quite all the time, Tom asked many questions to Reb. Kobori in English, he was one of rare kind who spoke English I was also like a student. It was almost impoosible to translate for me I had little know about Buddhism, and sutra. On the way back Tom's favorite temple was the bamboo railing approach to Koto-in (high paulownia temple, crest of Hoskokawa faimily)built in 1603, by Tadaoki Hosokawa(1563-1645), a few doors neighbor of Ryokoin in the gigantic Daitokuji complex. What I have learened by repeated visits to zen temple was to satoru(to wake) does not mean go to temple, to try to do your best and you realize this accomplishment. Every place was a temple, and KYOTO has been my broad sanctuary. Zen is a life itself, search yourself, see inside yourself. It is impossible to explain what is zen, when you are young. But In the afternoon, we hit to another humongous temple Enryakuji, only temple allowed to have an emperor's reign, later Tenryuji tried, but failed, Mt Hiei(alt. 2,782ft,/848m), the highest peak in the main part of Kyoto, we could have gone by cable car, but we drove up monkeys studded toll road, and walked Japanese cedar and cypress arcaded Hiei(array of the wise, it means) awesome headquarters of Tendai Sect of Buddhism, a small hut was a humble beginning in 785 , and three years later Ichijo Shikan-in monastery was established by a young priest Saicho(posthumouly called Dengyo Daishi , 767-822, born on the foot of Mt. Hiei) to protect the new capital from evil spirit, it was called Mt. Hiei temple originally, in 785 he was initiated into full precept at the Kaidan-in(Commandment Altar) of Todaiji Temple in Nara, capital city at that time, to become a full-fledged priest at the age of 19. He devoted to his austere studies and lit up the eternal Lantern in the hope of tranmitting Light of Buddha Law, this was the inception of Konponchudo (fundamental central hall), the main building of Enrakuji Temple(now) where we keep permanant Buddha light.
After the death of Emperor Kammu, renamed Enryakuji, it was also the name of his reign. Along with Mt. Koya Enryakuji is known as one of the most venerable holy places in Japan. He and his disciples practiced acestism, Mt. Hiei temple was officially received a name by Emperor Saga in 823, they expanded this temple, by the end of 9th century it was the center of esoteric teaching of Tendai, 10th century was the highest peak of this temple, three pagodas, 16 valleys, and 3,000buildings. Naturally we hav had many factions to lead the group, in 993 Onjoji(Miidera), Otsu created their own. ex-emperor created their own prestigous temple, such as Sanzen-in and Shoren-in.
The famous statement shows how powerful Mt. Hiei was, Emperor Goshirakawa(1056-1129) three things are uncontrollable, "the water flow of Kamo river, the dice of Sugoroku game, and bonze on Mt. Hiei". The founders of new sects during the Kamakura period(1185-1333) were trained here in this headquarters St. Honen, founder of Jodo(Pure Land) sect, and St. Shinran(1173-1260), Shin Buddhism, Eisai, Rinzai Zen, Dogen Soto Zen, and Nichiren, foundner of Nichiren Sect. In the 12th and 13th centuries Mt. Hiei suppressed these new sects. At one time Tendai army of Mt. Hiei raided Nichiren temples impartially and killed their priests and burned their literature, so even as late as 1536, it was eliminated from Kyoto, Nichiren sect never becomes a major force in Kyoto, even now. So Jodoshinshu or Pure Land Authentic sect was kept out of Kyoto for nearly two centuruies, one of the example of this feud, in 1207 Nembutsu(chanting of Namu Amida Bustsu) was prohibited by Imperial Eddict and Honen and Shinran was expelled from Kyoto to Tosa and Echigo and Shiran propagated his religion in Kanto Region, and later Osaka though both of them were pardoned in 1211. In 1591 Hideyoshi Toyotomi granted a tract of land at Rokujo in Kyoto to Honganji Temple Headquarters and this has remained to this day. This is the headquaters of Nishi-honganji Temple, though Hideyoshi's Jyurakudai(gathering pleasure) Mansion was constructed in 1587, the huge castle-like structure, most ptobably overlapping the original imperial palace, from Omiya St. to Senbon St. 600 meter east to west and Ichijo St to Imodachuri St, north south, but eight years later dismantled, partly moved to Fushimi castle, and still partly moved after downfall of Toyotomi family, to Nishihonganji temple, near Senbon & Demizu St., not so far away from Kitano Shrine up in the north and also orignial imperial palace called Daigokuden (the northern end was Ichijo St., south side was Nijo St, westend Onmae St, and eastend was Senbon St.) which was built in 794 and finally in 1177 burnt down, never restored, around Senbon Marutamachi, it is generaly believed, but nobody knows for sure, I visited Shoin of Nishi-honganji Temple and Hiunkaku(flying cloud pavilion) and Nijo Castlein 1603, Daigo Sampoin, these are part of example of Hideyoshi's palatial buildings. Sometimes I sat down on the quite floor of tatami mat and shoji screen, we go back to 400 years very quickly to understand esthetics of Momoyama period. People these day think all the religious institutions has been coexisted peacefully happily ever after, acutually from the days of introduction of Buddhism in our religion, some of tumbing christians in 16th and 17th centuries, we have had fierce religious feud between one group to another. Zen headquarters were in Kamakura when Eisai brought his new idea back from sung dyansty, China, but Kyoto was very slow to accept this doctrine, the first zen temple built in Kyoto was Kenninji(building faith temple), in 1191but the power was weak until the very beginning at the time of Muromachi(1333-1580), five zen temples and many others constucted in Kyoto. Zen influenced all over Japan during this time, warriers become artists, including tea ceremony, flower arrangement, black ink paintings, etc. Monks becomes soldiers.
Nobunaka Oda(1534-1582) , warlord, set the fires and destroyed the warrier-monk-filled monastery, in 1571 " Unless I do it now, this trouble will be everlasting, these priests on Mt. Hiei foget their vow, they eat fish, keep cocubines, never open their savrd books". But Enryakuji temple was restored to small scale by Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Shogunate Government, the principal buildling is called Konponchudo(Fundamental Central Hall), rebuilt in 1642, by Iemitsu Tokugawa, the third largest wooden building in Japan, must see place to observe eternal oil lamp.
Tom was not so impressed, we passed the scenic road down to Otsu(big port) and came back to Kyoto on a different route as usual.
May 4. Kyoto-Obama(small beach, pop.34,000)-Mikata(three direction) Wakasa Coastal Quasi-National Park, Two Day Trip Today we go up north, socalled third class national highway, Route 367, narrow road, Tom picked up a middle-aged hitchhiker, the more, the merrier , around noon we arrived at Obama, Fukui Pref.
Tom would like to shoot a typical Japanese farming scenery, mountain, rice paddy-field, carpstreamer, and human beings(farmers), as a scale we need all the time, all in one frame, I am beginning to understand the shooting style of National Geographic.
It is a middle of socalled Golden Week(holiday-stuuded), it is difficult to book a ryokan, we might need a sleeping bag, fortunately we found a small river fish restarant/inn(2,000Yen with dinner and breakfast) in Mikata.
May 5, Mikata-Mihama(beautiful beach)-Kyoto, 100km
7:00a.m. After breakfast we headed for Tsuruga direction, up in the north this time Route 27, narrow and winding road, we took numeous photographs of farming area, carpstreamers, Rainbowline of Mikata Five Lakes, scenic drive ups and down, from the summit of Mt. Baijo, this was relatively poor area, later numerous nuclear power stations were constructed one after another, the very first onewas almost in operation. In summer Kyoite used to go these beaches for swimming.
May 6, Kyoto Movie Studio, Home-own
Mr. Tsuguo Sakaki, Advertising Department, Toei Movie Studio, showed us No. 19 indoor studio, " The Lady Avenger", starred by Mr. Fumio Watanabe, and Ms. Junko Miazono, for sword action scene, we waited for a couple of hours before the real shooting, Honban, " Action... sound rolling", in Japanese, we shot some, hurry up and wait day, under restricted condition, we could not get the best picture, but we have ha fun and special invitation ticket of this movie, and I went there later.
May 7, Errand & Fine-tuning Day
For processing some still films we went to Far East laboratories from time to time. Usually most of them sent to Film Review, Photographic Division, National Geographic Society, by air cargo, whenever it is possible, sometimes by air mail, then reviewer or illustation ediotr, these people are director from home office send his comments, in our case a tanker in Osaka was not like a tanker, at the early stage, we went back to shipbuilding dockyard again, if all the photographs are not good, they rarely send another guy, and another, to Louver to Paris, I heard.
The comment was sent by cable or telex sometimes, 1970s, and early 80s.
Another aspect Tom was impressed, bushido(martial art), tonight we went to Seibukan(right martial hall) in Shimogamo, a part of success of Japan comes from mental structure of Japan, Mr. Masafumi Suzuki, master karate-ist, and director, introduced some kendo(fencing), judo, and others pare practing in the Dojo, this place become very popular tourist spot of Joe Okada's Samurai Night Tour, in our heyday of foreign tourism to Japan, 70s and early 80s. Gradually Japan becomes so prosperous and Yen was appreciated to much and we lost our market in the course of the years our hungry spirit and konjo(gut) are gone, ended up gutless guy.
May 8, Kyoto-Osaka-Sakai
Negotiation day, another type of Osaka's heavy industry is Hitachi(sunrise) Shipbuilding Company,head office in downtown Osaka, today we made an appointment with public relations office to cover a tanker under construction.
We had lunch at Osaka Grand Hotel, and Tom discovered nice cheap? building to go up, what we called serendipity, or gate crusher, or go show, whatever we call it, we visit without appointment, and bow deeply and politely ask for permission, it worked today, Tom went up to the top of the tower of NTT(telephone comapany's building), once called Venice in the Orient, with 800 bridges, in the central middle island section of Osaka. We saved some money to to fly.
May 9, Kyoto-Kadoma, Osaka, 135km, round trip
Early morning call, 5:30a.m. To beat the heavey traffic and better morning light we left earlier, and arrived at Headoffice of Matsushita Electric Industrial, at 7:20a.m. to take a picture of the exterior building, but due to bad weather, we gave up. Tom is like a chameleon, change from a photographer to a writer.
At first from 9:30 to 11:30a.m. an interview with Chairman, Konosuke Matsushita, a founder of National Panasonic, they gave us ample time to grasp his idea, and we tried to find something unique, ended up one inch miniature television , along with the production line of TV plant, which was one of the flasgship of Matsushita Electric Industrial.

Kansai #8
May 11, Sun. Kyoto-Uji-Nara, 120km
In spite of drizzle our team went down to Uji, whre we have many tea gardens, and we shot tea picking of Mr. Kisaburo Yoshida, and processing, traditionally some of the girls were wearing nice ikat kimono to collect tea, this is only ceremonial occasion now, no great photo, went to Nara, at Restaurant Kikusui we had western food, he does not like Japanese food so much, not so many western restaurants in Nara, I sometimes asked more French fries for him secretly. We took a walk of Kofukuji Temple, founded in 669 by the wife of Kamatari Fujiwara, first linage of this famous family, and transferred to Nara in 710, at the height of its prosperity, around 12th century, this temple had more than 175 buildings, Kofukuji and Kasuga Shrine was tutelary temple of court noble Fujiwara family, in 1180 many buildings were burned to ashed because along with Todaiji they backed Genji clan, so archrival Heike took a revenge on these great temples, and naturally later rebuilt by Yoritomo Minamoto, the shogun of Genji in Kamakura, one of the main buildings is five-storied pagoda, second highest in Japan, measruing about 50 meters(165 feet), originally built in 730, present one in 1426. and their Museumof national treasures, 1000 years old images of Buddha.
Nan-endo, an octagonal building, repeated burnt down by fire, originaly built in 813, the present one was built in 1741 has been the ninth temple of 33 holy Kannon pilgrimage in Western Provinces.
Torch lit Noh play at the south gate of this temple delayed by rain started at 5:30p.m, in spite of our long waiting of the ringside seat. Other photographers were very patient until the actions took place.
Takigi(bonfire)Noh is usually held in the summer months, originated in Kofukuji Temple as a part of religious rite and was dedicated to the deities enshrined at the temple. This is one of the orignal places, the torchlit Noh was beautiful at dusk, when we still have some daylight, slightly before it completely gets dark, we covered so many places with so many photographers, none published in the National Geographic so far. Burning torches and occasion sparks with slight day light and dancing actor gorgeous kimono and mask on the outdoor stage was Yugen-no-sekai(the world of mysterious aura), but the perfect combination is too hard to grap... Today we paved our way to take the pictures of the Great Buddha, with special lighting of 100 watt bulb on the top of long bamboo pole, at sat down at Todaiji tmple office and negotiated to give us permission of our planning.
May 12, Kyoto-Sakai, Hitachi(sunrise) Shipbuilding Dockyard, 160km, round trip
Tom stayed at Kyoto Hotel, Miyako Hotel, and other western hotels occasionally, so I picked him at Kyoto Hotel at 7:15a.m. via Meishin & Hanshin Expressway to Osaka and National Highway Route 26 to Sakai, 200,000ton oil tanker was the beginning stage of the building, nobody can guess what was it like, we tried again, later, many photos we repeated three times at a different date.
May 14, Kyoto-Ibaragi, National Panasonic TV Plant, 80km
Traffic jam in Osaka is so terrible, so to go to Matsushita Electric Industrial Ibaragi TV plant is right outside Meishin Expressway ramp was a piece of cake. 09:20a.m. we arrived without any hitch as usual we had routine scouting on the production line, no much trade secret those days, rows of female workers assemblying TV parts, less industrial robot, still labor was cheap in Japan, three C, color televsion, car and cooler(ariconditioner) was a material yardstick of your success.
Tom told us regular TV is too normal, so senseation-seeking Tom discovered less than five centimeter mini-screen television, this soicy TV set was eyecatching and made to to the magazine.
Additionaly we moved to semiconductot factory of Matsushit Electronics, Central Research Hall, etc, came home around 8:00p.m.
May 15, Aoi Matsuri(Hollyhock Festival)
today in Kyoto another famous even, one of three biggest festivals in Kyoto which dates back to the 7th century and it was a nice day except the Imperial red tape.
We did not have a proper arm band, this is the official credential of Japanese press, or member of the press club in Japan, we made our own after many erroors, but Tom wanted to take the preparation work of this festival procession, which decorate headgear of participants bt aoi-plant(Asarum caulescens), it is believed many houses on the path was also brightened with holyhock leaves. This is reenacted Imperial procession, Imperial messengers and his suite, main star is called saiodai, Miss Michio Horii, age 14, twelve layer heavy kimono called 12 Hitoe, princess style ,total 552 participants, one kilometer long in full court costume, old guradman, pages, halberd bearers, an Imperial chariot drawn by oxen in late Heian attire. Today was our long hiking day, as the procession went, we left at 10:30a.m. It was a shortened course, nearby Ritsumeikan University was in turmoil, until the day before because of students riot, but today it was an armistice day, also for the first time televised by local Kinki TV, 120 policemen mobilized. We crossed aoi-bridge, the place is the famous landmark of sanshisuimei(mountain purple, water bright), the place of natural beauty, of many layers of mountains. After we left Shimogamo Shinto Shrine, was partly rebuilt in 1628 date back to we ere running out of steam and film, they headed for Kamigamo Shrine, and we headed for home.
180,000 spectaters were out for this festival along the way.
May 16, Kyoto-Otsu-Matsusaka(pine slope)(pop. 50,000), 120km. From Nagoya 60 mile
Another outing from Kyoto this time Route 1, east, headed for Matsusaka, after Suzuka Pass, of Old Tokaido Road(Eastern Seaboard) of Hiroshige Ando, famous Wadakin Restaurant, established in 1870, in 1957 they received 'Yellow ribbon award', 1,000Yen beefsteak, delicacy for both of us, some westerners do not like Japanese socalled shimofuri(marbled) beef, too much fat contents, but Japanese eat with rice, the consumption of beef is not great, and in case of sukiyaki we need proper amount of melting fat, like a gravy, otherwise the taste is awful, we tried fatless beef sukiyaki in Australia later, different country, different taste, also many do not like sukiyaki, putting soy sauced flavored beef in raw egg has great registance, boiling hot delicary is dipped into the egg a few seconds make a proper temperature, anything raw has no-no idea for negative people. No sushi in thos days. Konishiya Ryokan, without food was only 1,500Yen. Went to bed at 11:00.p.m.
May 18, Iseshi(Pop. 70,000), Grand Shrines, some 120 minor shrines, Isobe 60km
Wakeup at 6:00a.m. Visited Wadakin's ranch , two buildings one has 100 and another 60 heads beer fed, juicy tuna-meat like beef was specially fatting method of Wadakin and took some photo , we visited again, and some other ranches, but no photo was published and went down to Ise, the religous headquarters of shinto shirnes, our bluebird had first flat tire. Arrived at Ise, holy city, Geku , outer shrine, 214 acres, is dedicated to Toyouke Omikami (Goddess of Farms, Crops, Food and Sericulture) and Naiku, inner shrine, is to the Amaterasu-Omikami(Sun goddess) around 4th century B.C. the Inner Shrine was founded. Since then it is frequently visited by Imperial family.
These shrine are constructed of Japanese hinoki(cypress) from the state forest of Kiso mountains.
They are typical archaic Japanese style, most probably no inflence from China.
After crossing Uji Bridge, and then entering the first torii, we reached to the banks of Isuzu River, on the gravel road where we washed our hands and rinse our mouth, no drinking please, a kind of purification, to show our piety to kami, or the gods, the sacred land is about 165 acre. The total precints has an old atomosphere. Though I have never seen, the Mirror(Yata-no-kagami), which is one of the three sacred treasures, - Mirror, swords, and jewels-which constitute Imperial Regalia of Japan. Japanese mithology says the Mirror was handed by Sun Goddess to prince Ninigi, her grandson, also the great grand father of first emperor Jimmu, he came down to reign this area.
According to the two anicent chronicls of Japan, Kashiwara, Yamato on January 1, in 660 B.C. the first enthonement was conducted, it was a lunar calendar, and it was Feb. 11, solar calendar, fixed later , base on this passage, National Foundation Day, a natiojnal holiday was set up on Feb. 11, also Japanese imperial calendar we say history of Japan is more than 2600years. 1997 is 2657, zero fighter plane was made 2600, so it was called zero formula fighter in Japanese. At the time of Meiji Era, it was called kigen-setsu, the day to celebrate the beginning of the era. Some historians say it is doubleful, this is right or worng. Most Shinto shrines are jaded with Chinese influence. Ise and Izumo Shrine are rather pure Japanese traditional architectures. Before Meiji Restoration(1868) no Buddhist priests and nuns are allowed to go inside of the precint.
From 689, every 20 years it has been a custom to erect new shrine, the previous time was 1953, the 60th rite took place in 1973. Why every 20 years, becuase it is easy to preserve the crafting technique,and hand it down to next generation, if every 50 years, father to son he is gone or too old sometimes ? No photography made Tom cross. Further down to Ago Bay, 240,000 sq.km. , nick- named a pearl harbor(bay), sardine-packed cultured pearl-bearing oyster beds of Mikimoto, about 50,000kigrams were produced in this prefecture, I did not know too much water pollution at this time, underneath the sliverlining dreadful sludges are piling up on the bottom of the bay, partly by hotels and private villa discharging their waste water, and no proper sewage treatment facilities, but we were taking pictures of skin deep beauty of these rafts and shimmering water in a beautiful late afternoon , we stayed at Ise Shima Lodge, dinner was stone cold. Generally speaking western people want someting hot for dinner, even for lunch, this public institution was just like a jail, dinner is ready around 4:30p.m. even if we eat at 7:00p.m. National character of Japanese, they do not like to wait for dinner, so the food is waiting for us long time. After this we avoided Government run facility, their service was horrendous.
May 19, Isobe(by the shore)-Nagiri(ctting waves)-Toba(bird feathers)(Pop. 30,000)-Kashikojima(wise island), 55km
5:00a.m. We left early to shoot some ama(girl of the sea) or women diver, catching abalone and sea-shells, it was said about 8000 divers in Shima Regions. their ages from 12 to 60, worked almost everyday from early morning to late afternoon, this area was particularly mountainous less arable land available. Many women worked as a diver. mid-day Tom wanted his own photo. No bridge was connected yet, Pearl Island in Toba Harbor, where Kokichi Mikimoto(1895-1954), a son of noodle-maker, first succeeded in making first culture pearl on this island in 1893. They made cracked Liberty Bell and exhibited to New York Exposition 1939. He was a great entrepreneur, and very keen man to collect information he died at the age of 96. Cultured pearls and natural pearls are not substantially different, one went inside accidentally, both have same luster and sheen, Mikimoto's major patent expired in 1921, and enthusiastic pearl makers followed his suit and now you find many other brands beside Mikimoto.
In collecting pearl oysters one method was hiring ama or women divers to collect oysters. Tom wanted to take a picture of ama in the water, he rented wet suit from Okano, Manager of Pearl Island, shot some. Maybe not publishable quality. Pearl was sold like a hot cake in those days for oversea visitors. Along with Soichiro Honda, founder of Honda Motors, and Toyota, is out of Kansai, Mr. Mikimoto was a man of character.
May 20, Nakiri-Wagu(harmonious tools)
We went to local tiny fish market in Nakiri, came back to Shima Kanko Hotel, and had western breakfast. Then we drove to Wagu, mecca of ama divers, and charted a boat 2,000Yen one hour, he took some photo of divers, later Louis Marden covered Japanese ama divers, here and Wajima, tip of Noto Peninsula.

Kansai #9
May 21, Kashikojima-Toba-Nanseicho( south )-Owase(tail of eagle), 150 km
We went to Futamigaura, or wedded rocks connected by ricestraw ropes, one of the scenic beuaty in June the sun rises between the two rocks, we do not have many places in Japan to see the sun rises, over the water, more-sun setting place, first , and additional coverage of Mikimoto Pearl Island, selection of pearls, stringing, so much for pearls, and left for my new territory, from Gokase Bay, narrow winding road, almost cliffhanging one lane road, but not one way, actually for both ways, in Nanseicho, we had flat tire again, and people worked at night and we asked local garage to fix it, but could not make it to Owase, finished in Kii-nagashima, because we had another flattire, 1,000Yen, merchant ryokan, at 11:30p.m. Iwent to futon(bed), were overachiever today. Punishment of kami or god.
May 22, Owase-Shingu(new shrine)-Katsuura(senic coast), 200km, total over 2,000km.
We fixed the tire in the morning, we arrived at Kii-katsuura, and looking for moderately priced nice ryokan, Japanese usully do not ask a hotel to show us a room, for Tom money's worth is very important, Koshinoyu, Tamanoi, are too steep, over 5,000Yen with two meals, ended up Hotel Matsui, after a short break we climbed up Mt. Nachi(big wisdom) by car and Myoho(beautiful law) Skyline scenic drive and try to take a picture of Kannon's paradise, this is his den.
May 23, Nachi Shrine
Early in the morning we reached highest waterfall in Japan, 140 meters, Kumano-Nachi Grand Shrine, founded in 4th Century, most famous festival is on July 14, this is the scouting for this festival, some 500 steps, on the way decending and acending mikoshi(portable shrine)crush, this is based on legendary Kumano expediation of Emperor Jimmu, from 10:00a.m. dengaku(farm dance) rice-transplanting dance, etc the present main building were built in 1848, met Rev. Shiro Shinohara, less crowded and formal than Grand Shrines of Ise, and he was very nice to lecture us regarding the native religion of Japan. Shinto means the ways of gods, and indigenous religion of this county. It has been developed as nature and ancester worshipping. A mountain(in case of Mt. Miwa in Nara) and waterfall, in this case regarded as a god, sometimes an old tree, too. Some shrines are dedicated to emperors, and shoguns, and war lords. A building is called jinja(gods building) or jingu(associated with Imperial family), like Heian Jingu, Kashihara, jingu and Ise jingu, sometimes, a big shrine called taisha, Izumo taisha, Kasuga taisha. Most shrines start at torii(bird perch) entrance, honden(main sanctury) and haiden(oratory), the first day of the month is the most important day and fifteenth comes next. For a shintoist, most important, is purification is essential and exorcism, called harai, cleaning the body with water called misogi, and abstention called imi. In our daily life for ordinary people , miyamairi, when a baby becomes one month old, christening, and 7-5-3, at the age of seven, five and three years old, parent take children to the shrine to apprciate of their growth and get blessing and finally most of our wedding is conducted in shinto style, ended up in Buddhist funeral services.
In Japan we say we have 80,000 shrines, this correspond to the number of old communal villages, where people live and work common spirtural life, uji-ko & uji-gami we call it, and shinto shrine was home of Japanese people and the buildings were center of Japnese ceremonies, and as we developed and evolved, so did the building and ideology.
Matsuri is a word for festival, an ancient expression 75 celebrations in a year, four days a week, roughly, important festival is spring festival, praying good harvest , happiness, and prosperity, and harvest thanking festival late autumn. change of the four seasons, we have different rituals.
But the borderline between Budhhism and Shintoism is very difficult, after Meiji Resoration, State Shintoism implemented, but socalled Honji Suijaku Theory, shinto divinities are manifestation of members of Buddhist pantheon, Ryobushinto, two main mandala, graphic and ritual representation, one is Dainichi(Great Sun) and Amaterasu(Sun Goddess), syncretism developed by Kukai.
Sanno(Mountain King) Hie Shinto Shrine and Enryakuji, Mt. Hiei, are inseparable. Anyway Adjacent, Seigantoji, Buddhist temple date back to 7th century and this is the starting point of 33 holy Kannon temples in Western Provinces. Present main building built 1587, by Hieyoshi Toyotomi's younger brother Hidenaga. Early Heian Period when newly established esoteric Buddhism led study/training center, like Mt. Hiei and Koya, at the time of haibutsu-kikyaku(abandoning Buddhism) seven temples and 36 buildings were destroyed. I have started collecting stamps(good luck) for my own soul searching. The last stop of 33 piligrimage temple is Kegonji, Mt. Tanikumi, Gifu Pref. They call it western provinces, from Edo(Tokyo) via Ise, ended up 132ri, (one ri is about 4 kilometers). Japanese junrei or pilgrimage started around 12th century, each sect has their own, 24 temples for Pure Land Authentic sect, 25 for Pure Land sect, on an ilsand of Shikoku we have 88 temples, six Jizo and seven Kannon in Kyoto. From Nara to Heian Period some priests practiced austeries deep in the mountains, later started preaching in the villages and towns, such as Kukai and Saicho. Each Buddha has its own jodo or Pure Land, Shakamuni, Reizanjodo, Amida Buddha, Gokurakujodo, Kannon Hodaraku Jodo, it was the degenerated age of the latter days of the Law, we called it Mappo in Japanese. People wanted to be reborn in the Pure Land, this Kumano/Nachi was one most the most popular holy spot.
It was called nokyo, offering sutra, pilgrimers copied many sheets of sutra , as a verification of people received a calligraphy and stamp of a temple, now everything was simplied some chant scripture of heart sutra, some cut coners, asking drivers and tour conducters to get stamps, some drivers get his own, and another to sell stampsbook at a lucrative price, their sideline business, my tour never went back to the same places repeated, this is not applicable. Utopia and Pure Land were regarded inside of the five-storied pagoda, garden, or complex of temple buildings.
Walking trail was the passage to go to Pure Land, to make their effort to walk up to higher places.
The roots of Japanese garden is latter part of Heain Period in fron of the kondo or main hall was western paradise, we have lotus lake and middle island this was the world of Kannon. May 24, Katsuura-Odaigahara(Yoshino-Kumano National Park)-Kyoto, 300km.
The distance is not so great, but today we go narrow winding mountainoue road, 5:00a.m. we left via Shingu and Kumano, Route 169, an inland road, 1961 opened toll road to go up to the roof of Kinki(kansai) district. In spite of the rain, we arrived at Mt. Odaigahara(great plateau field), alt. 1,695m, Tom was wearing yellow raincoat, in a deep fog, all of sudden, in the beech forest we encoutered yamabushi, or mountain priests, another one very difficult to translate, some are working normaly, and some days they go to their own pariticular mountain, religion is very difficult to explain, it is just like to explain a tofu(bean curd), in those day many pronounced to-who, those who they never eat, shugendo, some pious seekers pursue their personal physical and spitirul goal through mountain climbing, apart of their training. After lunch we partly climbed Mt. Hinode(sunrise), but totally blindfolded by fog, we quitted, around 8:00 reached to Nara to have civilized dinner, it was the longest day.
May 28, Kyoto-Kobe(door to the god)-Himeji(princess road) 150km.
A couple of days we made some more arrangements to go next destinations and check some result of exposed films, and postoned one day to go to Kobe becuase of bad weather. Wake-up at 5:00a.m. today's target is big Himeji castle, as usual we had western breakfast at now -defunct Kobe Oriental Hotel(damaged by Kobe Earthquake, 1995), their hayshi(hsshed feef) rice was a delicacy in Kobe.
In Kobe Port Authority, Kobe City Hall, we made appointment, and scouted, less imposing overhead bridges at this time, no computer, " vessel due" was shown in white chalk, almost the historical photo before the computer days, going up the tower to take pictures, this is now historical photo.
Wemovered further west to Himeji, National Highway Route 2, this is the westend of our assignment of "Kansai".
We were usually just like a bear freshly pushed into the cage, we went around and around the white heron castle, too much TV antena and electric power poles. No luck. Stayed at Endo Ryokan.
May 29, Himeji-Kyoto
4:30a.m. wakeup call. So we challenged early morning photo if Himeji Castle, we could not get the best angle. Phenomenal traffic jam, in Japan, sometime, we can make only 10km during morning rush hour. So in my van now I have VCR and watch some newsy program I tape in my office previous days. So we can be not so irritating due to long backup. Kobe/Osaka only 20km, 1995 was record breaking 8 hours, right after Great Hanshin Earthquake. We had mornig break at Maiko park, one of the rare whilte sand beach and Suma beach we and then slowed moved to Kobe and meered around Ameircan Pier, and and then checked in Oriental Hotel.
The biggest facility port in Japan, trade volume Yokohama was bigger, I went back to Kyoto by train, I had my moonlighting job teaching English, it was a part of my agreement.
May 30, Kobe-Osaka
Kobe is much more open than Kyoto, so we went Nanban(southern barbarian) Museum, we called westerners 450 year ago. They came from the south, Portugese came first, so we have some words even now we use from Portugese originally, such as pan and boro, most probably tempura, too, they did not eat raw fish, so they deep fry some fish and tried funny happy medium(means tmporary food).
We explored more Muslim chruch, Chinese Temple and China Town, lastly scouted Jewish Synagoue, in Kobe, but nothing was so spectacular and then headed for Osaka.
May 31, Kabuki in Minamaiza Theater.
The Japanese word kabuku means to incline, and extravagant clothes and unconventional behavior.
Kabuki was most probaly danced by Izumo-no- Okuni(born in 1572), dedicated artistic heroine performed on the river bed here in Kyoto, in 1603, many small theaters are springing up along Kamo river, just like the gangster movie around 1970-80, kabuki dance was very popular, Kyoto was political and financial center along with Osaka. Troupes of female entertainers included courtisans, to advertise their business, walking cultures in those days, dancers costume became so gorgeous and extravagant. Wakashu(youngster)-kabuki was univerally banned, in 1652 after the death of homosexual Iemitsu Tokugawa, third shogun. Since then Kabuki made a tremendous change to drama-based rather than dance based performances. Onnagata or female inpersonator, style of acting was establised. In Edo, Danjuro Ichikawa, highest name of the kabuki, perfected the bold and super-human roles of aragoto, rough business. In Kyoto romance style was much popular. The golden age was Chikamtsu(like Shakespear) lived and wrote scripts for Kabuki between 1995 and 1705 in Kyoto.
Minamiza is the only one eixisting theater in Kyoto, and in December (even now) we have kaomise(preview of grand Tokyo/Osaka star compete their artistic skill). Shochiku, one of the biggest entertainment company , originaly in Osaka, 1920, as a kabuki production company, in Osaka, later main business moved to film and moved to Tokyo.
Today they have dress rehearsal of the Kabuki, Mr. Sahara, Manager, hobby actor, explained the history and background inforamtion. Osaka was the center of Bunraku and Kabuki and driving force of economy, in 1920/30, Kanebo(Kanegafuchi Spinning Company) was highest profit winning company in Japan, many films made by Mizoguchi, Osaka was the center of MOGA(modern girls) before the world war Two. The dignified bridge of Dotonbori was still there. We took some pictures, but Tom wanted actors and hanamichi(flower path), and viewer's reaction, so real shooting was postponed until June 7.
We finished early and took a bath at Masumoto ryokan.

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